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Home appliances

Air Conditioner

Most AC regret comes from two mistakes: buying the wrong tonnage for the room, and ignoring the running cost. The sticker price is maybe a third of what the machine costs you over five summers.

Find your fit

A few questions about your situation, not about the product.

How big is the room?
How harsh is the heat load?
How much will you run it?
Where will it go?

Answer all 4 questions to see the spec sheet to shop with.

The spec sheet, decoded

Tonnage (1 ton, 1.5 ton…)

How much heat the AC can remove per hour — not the weight of the unit.

Why it matters

Undersized units run non-stop and never cool; oversized units cool fast, switch off, and leave the room clammy.

What to check

Roughly 1 ton per 100–120 sq ft, add capacity for top floors, west sun, or 3+ people in the room.

Inverter vs fixed-speed compressor

An inverter compressor slows down instead of switching fully off and on.

Why it matters

Steadier temperature, far less noise, and 20–30% lower electricity use for heavy daily runtime.

What to check

If you run the AC under ~600 hours a year, a good fixed-speed 3-star can be the cheaper lifetime choice.

ISEER / star rating

Cooling delivered per unit of electricity across a season.

Why it matters

This is the number that shows up on your bill every month, not once at the shop.

What to check

Compare the ISEER figure itself, not just stars — rating thresholds get revised and old stock looks better than it is.

Split vs window vs portable

Where the noisy compressor sits: outside (split), in the wall (window), or in the room (portable).

Why it matters

Split is quiet and efficient; window is cheap and easy to service; portable is a last resort for rented or glass-walled rooms.

What to check

Split needs outdoor wall space within ~5 m of the indoor unit, otherwise copper piping costs jump.

Copper vs aluminium coil

The metal in the heat exchanger.

Why it matters

Copper transfers heat better, is repairable, and survives coastal humidity far longer.

What to check

Vague words like 'alloy' or 'copper-coated' usually mean not copper. Ask for the spec sheet line.

Air throw & noise (dB)

How far cold air reaches, and how loud the indoor unit is.

Why it matters

For a long or L-shaped room, weak throw leaves cold pockets; for bedrooms, anything over ~40 dB is noticeable at night.

What to check

Quoted noise is usually the lowest fan speed — ask for the high-speed figure too.

Dust filter / dehumidify mode

Extras: fine filters, PM2.5 claims, and a dry mode that pulls humidity without over-cooling.

Why it matters

Dry mode is genuinely useful in monsoon; filter marketing mostly is not.

What to check

Any filter needs washing every 2–3 weeks or your cooling drops and your bill rises.

Before you pay

  • Measure the room in square feet and note the floor and sun direction before you shop.
  • Ask for the ISEER number and the annual units-consumed figure printed on the label.
  • Confirm compressor warranty (usually 10 years) versus unit warranty (usually 1 year).
  • Get installation cost quoted in writing: copper piping per metre, stand, stabiliser, drain pipe.
  • Check service-centre presence in your city for that brand before choosing on price.

Common traps

  • !'1.5 ton is safer' — an oversized AC in a small bedroom leaves the air damp and cycles noisily.
  • !Free installation that excludes piping beyond 3 metres, the single most common surprise bill.
  • !Star ratings compared across different years or across window vs split — they are not the same scale.

Typical range: modest 3-star fixed-speed to premium 5-star inverter units.

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